SHEIN & Temu: Will New French Laws Change Fast Fashion?
France has taken a decisive legislative step to curb the environmental and social costs of ultra-fast fashion.
In a move that could set a precedent across Europe, the French Parliament has approved a bill targeting low-cost, high-volume fashion giants such as SHEIN and Temu.
With proposed changes including eco-taxes, advertising bans and mandatory sustainability disclosures, the bill marks one of the most comprehensive responses to date to the growing problem of fashion overproduction and textile waste.
Fast fashion changes
On 10 June 2025, the French Senate passed the bill to regulate ultra-fast fashion with 337 votes in favour and only one against.
The text will now move to a joint committee of senators and deputies in September with the European Commission also needing to be notified to ensure the bill complies with EU regulations.
One of the bill’s cornerstone measures is the introduction of environmental surcharges on fast fashion items.
Beginning in 2025, each item sold by ultra-fast fashion brands will incur a €5 tax (roughly US$5.80), increasing to €10 (roughly US$11.60) by 2030.
The surcharge will be capped at 50% of the item’s retail price to maintain affordability, whilst incentivising more sustainable consumer choices.
Revenue generated from these taxes will be redirected to support sustainable French fashion producers.
“France’s Senate passed groundbreaking legislation targeting ultra-fast fashion brands like SHEIN and Temu, marking the most radical regulatory attempt yet to tackle the environmental crisis in fashion,” wrote Lubomila Jordanova, Founder and CEO of Plan A, on LinkedIn.
This financial support aims to enhance the competitiveness of environmentally conscious domestic brands and make their products more accessible to the public.
Advertising and influencer restrictions
To curb consumer demand for disposable clothing, the bill introduces a complete ban on advertising ultra-fast fashion.
This prohibition extends to social media platforms and influencer marketing, where such brands often thrive.
The measure is intended to reduce the visibility and allure of ultra-cheap clothing, particularly among younger demographics.
In addition, influencers promoting ultra-fast fashion products could face sanctions.
This provision underlines the growing accountability expected of digital marketing channels in shaping consumer behaviour.
Mandatory environmental transparency
Retailers will be obligated to disclose key environmental information alongside product pricing.
This includes details on carbon emissions, resource usage and recyclability.
An eco-score system will be introduced to rate the environmental footprint of clothing items.
This score will influence the level of taxation imposed, rewarding brands with higher environmental standards and penalising those with lower scores.
Companies failing to meet established environmental criteria could face penalties of at least €10 per item (roughly US$11.60), or up to 50% of the product’s pre-tax price.
“Seeing a strong positioning of France against fast fashion is a powerful sign in a period where sustainability seems forgotten behind economic pressure to grow,” wrote Marco Longhin, Global Circularity Manager at SHL Medical, on LinkedIn
Focusing on imports
While the bill’s most stringent measures focus on non-European ultra-fast fashion platforms, major European retailers such as Zara, H&M and Kiabi will still be required to provide environmental information.
However, they will be exempt from the advertising ban and the highest tier of surcharges.
This differential treatment has drawn criticism from some environmental organisations, who argue that the scope of the law is too narrow.
By focusing primarily on non-European actors, critics claim the bill may reflect economic protectionism more than a truly comprehensive environmental reform.
Additional proposed measures include taxing packages imported from outside the EU and banning free returns, both of which are designed to disincentivise high-volume, low-cost imports.
Addressing a mounting crisis
The urgency behind the legislation is clear.
France currently discards 35 clothing items every second, reflecting a broader pattern of overconsumption driven by the fast fashion model.
“We have enough clothes for six generations,” wrote Vojtech Vosecky, Founder of The Circular Economist, on LinkedIn.
“The fashion industry reached a tipping point.
“This could be the start of a new beginning.”
The value of fast fashion advertising in France rose from €2.3bn (US$2.66bn) in 2010 to €3.2bn (US$3.7bn) in 2023, fuelling unsustainable consumption patterns.
With growing evidence that ultra-fast fashion accelerates environmental degradation and undermines local industries, this legislation signals a pivotal moment.
“I believe regulation can drive real change but only if it applies across enough of the market,” wrote Abbie Morris, Co-Founder and CEO of Compare Ethics, on LinkedIn.
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